Sussi Lodge and Chuma House – Victoria Falls
After spending the night at the Airport Sun Intercontinental Hotel at Johannesburg Airport (where they allowed us to leave the extra baggage not allowed on the safari) we flew on Nationwide Airlines from Johannesburg Airport to Livingstone Airport in Zambia.
We were warmly welcomed by Tendayi, and with two other guests were transported by vehicle (roughly 20 minutes) to a riverbank. We were greeted by a beaming Stephen and put onto a canopied boat and then “sailed” to Sussi Lodge's sundowner jetty. We were met by Serene (manager) and Suku (marketing-Vic Falls) and introduced to Mike Nesbitt and Alisa Brown who would be our travelling companions. We were given glasses of juice and cool, wet cloths and treated to a group of staff singing and dancing in traditional manner as a welcome to us. We then had an introductory meeting with Serene and Suku, and a tour around the property.
Sussi Lodge is situated on the northern edge of the Mosi-Oa-Tunya Park, where 10 luxurious tree houses hide discreetly amongst giant ebony trees on a sweeping bend of the Zambezi River, and Victoria Falls is only 10 minutes downstream. The main lodge is a two-story building with the dining room and bar on the second floor. This provides guests with an exceptional view of the Zambezi River. The library and gift shop are on the ground level and they have a ‘sala' room, which is at river level, open air and with chairs and comfortable seating, and can be used as a conference area. High, wooden boardwalks access the private tree-houses.
After lunch we boated across to Chuma House, where we were to spend the night. This is in a beautiful, private and serene location just down river from the main lodge. It is beautifully appointed, with two luxurious bedrooms and bathrooms attached and a main lounge area with kitchen facilities.
We were picked up by Mike and transported to Victoria Falls. We threw on our rain ponchos and advanced into the full, thunderous magnificence of Victoria Falls and retreated back to the vehicle completely drenched, but exhilarated. We returned to the lodge for a change of clothes and joined the other guests on the jetty for sundowners and then dinner. Dinner was held on the main level, outside, in front of the pool. Dinner was a delicious braai (barbecue) buffet.
We were awake early the next morning for a boat cruise with Laxon on the Zambezi River. The river was at its best – very full, exceptionally scenic and beautiful. We headed back for breakfast and Tendayi returned us to Livingstone Airport.
 
Lechwe Plains Tented Camp – Lochinvar National Park
We flew in an 8-seater (Cessna 402) with Captain Richard Jeffrey and co-pilot Stuart (only an hour’s flight) from Livingstone to the airstrip at Lochinvar National Park. We were met by Milos to transport us to Lechwe Plains Tented Camp situated in the magnificent World Heritage Wetlands site of Lochinvar National Park, in the Kafue River floodplain. It was very hot on this particular day and we should have had on sun block as it was just over an hour to camp and we were all sunburned by the end of the journey. Milos was very patient and allowed us to stop for the viewing of many birds, a tortoise, oribi, zebra and lechwe. We were told that a private airstrip closer to the camp was planned for the near future.
We were met at camp by Petros (manager), Lucas, Wesley, Robert and Mischek and greeted again with cool cloths and a cold glass of juice along with welcoming smiles and attentiveness. We were given the camp introduction in a lovely, shaded sitting area amidst an acacia grove on the edge of the Chunga Lagoon, which was full of large leguaan (monitor lizards) and waterfowl. We were taken to our tents situated near the water’s edge. There are only six tents in the camp and they are very spacious and uniquely circular. There is an outside shower, sunken bath inside, sitting area, and two basins and again, very beautifully decorated. This camp has a generator so there is electricity only in the evening, which allows for hot showers and the use of hair dryers, which are provided. The generator turns off at 10 p.m.
After lunch we were taken by Milos in a banana boat for a cultural visit to a large fishing village where many children greeted us. They were hugely entertained by the images of themselves on digital camera and we were very impressed by the fact that they asked nothing of us but to take their pictures. We were taken on a tour of their village to see the children’s school. It is noteworthy that clients staying at Lechwe Plains Camp and wishing to leave money are encouraged to leave that money in a fund the camp monitors for improvements to the village.
Upon arrival back at Lechwe, Petros on the sundowner boat met us and we transferred from the banana boat to the sundowner boat. We sat with our drinks and watched the sun set in a beautiful orange glow and then headed back to camp for showers and dinner. After another delicious dinner we sat around the fire in the boma for nightcaps and a chat and then headed to bed.
We rose early for a game drive with Petros to the plains to view the many water birds and lechwe. Lechwe Plains Tented Camp is a birdwatchers’ paradise with 428 bird species, ranging from the flamboyant flamingo and pelican through a boggling array of waterfowl and waders to over 50 species of raptors. Joining them are thousands of Kafue lechwe, and buffalo, zebra, wildebeest and oribi. After our bird watching we continued our drive to a surprise bush breakfast under the shade of an acacia tree. The breakfast consisted of a hearty, cooked feast of eggs, sausages, baked beans, bacon, tomatoes, fruit, cereal, juice, tea and coffee. After partaking in this fabulous meal we returned to camp, finished our packing and departed. As we drove out of camp about a dozen leguaan splashed into the water beside us as a farewell salute.
We were driven back to the airstrip by Milos, a journey this time of about 45 minutes and were again met by Captain Jeffrey and Co-pilot Stuart. We said our farewells to Milos, boarded and took off. Milos stayed to wave good-bye until we could no longer see him, which was a nice personal touch.
 
Kulefu Lodge – Lower Zambezi National Park
We arrived at Royal Airstrip where we were met by Morad, our guide, and Peter. Jeki Airstrip, which is closer to Kulefu, was closed for upgrading during our visit. We were then driven a very short way to Kusaka Lodge, where we were able to make use of the amenities, and then transferred to a boat, which would take us on the magical Zambezi River to Kulefu Camp (Kulefu meaning “a far away place”) in the Lower Zambezi National Park. As we set off, Morad looked sympathetically at all our sunburned faces and asked would we like to have the canopy up for our two and a half hour boat trip? A grateful and affirmative response was heard from all.
This was an amazing trip down a very beautiful river. There were hippos by the hundreds to entertain us and we saw occasional sightings of crocodiles, elephants and buffalo. It was very hot and very long, but it was an adventure all on its own. We stopped for some lunch on a shady, grassy bank, where we were treated to fresh tuna sandwiches and apples and fruit. We then carried on down river until we arrived at Kulefu Tented Camp, a secluded and intimate safari camp, with eight spacious tented rooms on raised teak decking, each with private verandah. Because of the distance traveled we were to spend two nights at Kulefu. We were met on the river bank by Andy and Catherine, managers, and Andrew and Ignatius (Operations Star of Africa based in Victoria Falls)
Once again, the staff, offering cool cloths and orange juice, greeted us. We were all a bit windblown after two and a half hours on the river so this was very welcome. We had a seat in the lounge/bar area and had our introductory chat with Andy and Catherine and then were taken to our tents. The accommodation at this camp is much more simple than at the previous two, but very comfortable, and the atmosphere less formal. This camp is solar powered so has electricity and hot water only at night.
The Lower Zambezi National Park, where Kulefu is situated, is in the Zambezi Valley downstream from Lake Kariba. It is fringed by a rugged escarpment and is a veritable wildlife menagerie. Attracted by lush floodplains, verdant woodlands and permanent water, elephants, buffalo and antelope move in big herds followed by the attendant predators including lion, leopard, hyena and wild dog. Because of the habitat diversity there is also a prolific range of bird species.
We met up for tea and carrot cake and then set off on a game drive with Morad and Peter. On this drive we saw buffalo, impala, waterbuck, warthog, elephant, baboons, a baby crocodile, hissing ants, great eagle owls, white-tailed mongoose and lots of bird life. We drove to a spot on the riverbank and had our sundowners there, not far from a hippo pod. We then set off on a night game drive, hoping to spot lion, leopards and wild dog, but alas, we came up empty-handed. We headed back to camp and showers. Our dinner table was set up on the riverbank by the edge of camp. Catherine told us that Andrew, who should have been joining us for dinner, was suspected of having malaria and would remain in bed, medicated. We then, as usual, had a superb dinner under the stars. We headed off to our tents for the night where we were delighted to find hot water bottles warming our beds.
We were up early the next morning (6 a.m.) for tea and rusks. Three of us departed 6:30 for a morning canoeing safari and the other member of our group chose to go out tiger fishing with Peter. We traveled first by boat upriver for around an hour and a half. We then entered our canoes: Chris, I and Morad in one and Alisa and Andy in another. We were in the water for roughly two hours. It was incredibly peaceful and as always very scenic. Lots of hippos were in evidence and there was a bit of excitement when a young hippo suddenly popped up at the water's edge and Andy had to make a quick getaway. We came in further down river and were met by jeep. Feeling very satisfied we set off for camp and breakfast – under yet another spreading acacia tree, situated by the banks of the river, for another splendid fry-up, safari style. Lovely! The table was artfully decorated with water hyacinth plucked from the river beside us. Catherine and Ignatius were there to welcome us and join us in the feast.
We drove back to camp for a couple of hours of rest and relaxation. Later in the afternoon we met in the lounge area for tea and chocolate cake and left for a game drive with Morad, Peter, Catherine and Ignatius. Eventually we drove into a wide, open plain to the sight of chairs set up for sundowners and snacks. We watched a beautiful sunset (as the sun was setting in front of us the moon was coming up full behind us) and at dusk we headed out on an evening game drive. As we were leaving we could hear a lion roaring close by so headed off on a lion hunt!
We found him on a rocky outcrop sitting by himself. As we stopped he stood up and walked slowly by the jeep. He lay down again behind us and Morad turned the jeep around so we were facing him. He ignored us, largely, and kept calling to his brothers (a very soulful sound) but we never did hear a response. He looked at us occasionally, particularly when Morad spoke, but eventually he grew weary of us and simply rolled onto his side for a snooze. This was a very special experience. As we continued on, our spotlight found a leopard casually crossing our path. We followed him and found him a little further on lying down. Again we were able to get very close and have a long look at him, before he rose and left us to continue his meanderings. Very exciting!
We drove back to camp thrilled with our sightings and headed for our showers. We met again for dinner under the stars and were treated to an eclipse of the moon. Ignatius joined us for dinner, as well as Andrew, who left his sick bed for the occasion.
The following morning we were up at the crack of dawn for a light breakfast in the formal dining room. We said goodbye to Catherine, Amos and Simushi and headed up river with Andy, Andrew and Peter. We arrived at Royal Safari Lodge and said our goodbyes to Andy. We discovered that our flight had been rescheduled and we were going to have to leave from Royal Airstrip to Lusaka (a two hour flight) on Airwaves Airlink and connect there for our flight to the South Luangwa National Park. We had a bit of a wait so settled in to sandwiches and drinks supplied by Catherine. Ignatius joined us here to say goodbye.
 
Puku Ridge and Chichele Presidential Lodge – South Luangwa National Park
We arrived in Lusaka and had a two-hour wait before we boarded and flew on to Mfuwe International Airport. Rodgers picked us up for quite a long drive to Puku Ridge Tented Camp in the South Luangwa National Park.
The natural beauty, variety and concentration of wildlife make the huge, 9050 square kilometer, South Luangwa National Park, one of the finest in Africa. Game is so prolific Luangwa is called “The Crowded Valley”. The Valley is home to over 50 mammal species including numerous leopard, kudu, elephant and giraffe. Thornicroft's giraffe are indigenous to the park and small herds of Cookson's wildebeest may be seen. Lion, hyena, buffalo, waterbuck, impala, puku and zebra are plentiful. Over 400 bird species have been recorded.
We drove through African villages on this section, which was very interesting from a cultural point of view. On entering the park we stopped to visit a hyena lair and watched three pups playing. Because we had been delayed by flight changes we only got in to camp at about 5:30pm. Again staff bearing cloths and orange juice met us, and we were introduced to Kari, who was co-managing the camp with Rodgers.
Puku Ridge Tented Camp is situated on a low, rocky ridge that overlooks a wide, water-rich valley. This camp is named for the elusive Puku antelope, which never strays far from water. The camp is small and intimate with six comfortably furnished safari tents, each with its own lavish bathroom, with the option of a large, outdoor and private shower. We were shown to our rooms by an armed guard, as elephants frequently enter the camp. We returned to the dining/lounge area for drinks and then headed out on a game drive, which turned into an evening drive. We were thrilled to spot another leopard on the side of the road beside the jeep and followed him for a time. The leopard was marking its scent. We also saw lots of elephant, some puku, eagle owls, white-tailed mongooses, and hippos feeding on land. We headed back to camp for dinner on the verandah. An elephant joined us at the corner and Rodgers “shooed” him away. That night I heard the sound of tearing and sat up to see an elephant eating just outside the verandah of the tent.
We were up early for a light breakfast and then left for a game drive and walk with Zebron and Jackson (with rifle) past elephant and giraffe, ending up at another sumptuous “breakfast in the bush” on the banks of a water hole. Here Kari and Andrew joined us. From here we were taken on another short drive to Chichele Presidential Lodge, which offers very grand accommodation in a luxury 20-bed safari lodge on a magnificent hilltop site situated in the South Luangwa National Park overlooking the Luangwa River. It is extremely beautiful, very Victorian colonial, open and airy and completely charming. We were welcomed by Nick and Tracey, managers, and by Misili and Pius, again with the traditional cloths and juice. We were shown to our rooms, which were charming and luxuriously appointed. We were able to relax till l:00 when we met on the wide, front verandah for lunch.
We left for a game drive and were again treated to sundowners and snacks in a beautifully scenic spot. Andrew also supplied us with champagne. Knowing this to be the last night of our safari, everyone was in a very relaxed, celebratory mood.
We returned for dinner on the side verandah. This was a truly entertaining evening – wonderful food and good company, with a number of shared stories. At the end of an amusing story told by Andrew about leopards using Chichele's pool as a drinking spot (pool located directly behind the dinner table) the power went off and we were (in a slightly more sober mood) escorted to our rooms by flashlight and an armed Jackson!
The following morning dawned on the end of a truly wonderful safari courtesy of the staff of Star of Zambia. Just before we left we watched two elephants amble past the gates of Chichele and felt that this was fitting closure to a wonderful trip.
We flew on Star of Africa Air Charters directly from Mfuwe to Livingstone where we connected immediately to our Nationwide Airlines flight back to Johannesburg.
If you are interested in a quote for this itinerary please feel free to contact either your agent or us directly at1-800-991-6111.
Chris and Felicity Bradshaw
Wild Africa Safari